Yes, they are ninjas. Certainly there's an elusive, splendid subtlety to what they do at The French Café. The essential quality of good service in a restaurant is that it makes you feel you want to stay in the company of the people providing it. They anticipate every little problem, they get things done quickly and with aplomb, they time your evening just so, they know their stuff, and they make you feel special. Maître d' Creghan Molloy Wright has that quality at The French Café, and she imbues it in all her staff. We gave wait staff some tough tasks when we were judging these awards — quizzing them at length on the food, refusing to accept their advice on wine matching to see how much they knew, changing our orders — and at The French Café they had good answers to every question, they were warm and friendly, to every table all night long, and they never missed a beat.